The Drifter

You know the saying "One day I hope I....."

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Last night Keir, pops and moms and I went to the premiere of

"The Drifter" at La Paloma.

(side note: that mustang in the picture is my moms - ha ha)

Rob Machado has been a hero of mine for a very long time. Ive said in past blogs how much I admire him, his surf style, his way of life.........last night seeing the movie, him playing music with his band and finally getting to shake his hand sealed the deal.

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Rob and his buddies have known each other for years. The funny thing was the music they played last night was written by the band members 15 years ago. Now here they were playing it at the La Paloma for all of us and in the movie "The Drifter".

Its amazing how music stays alive, waiting for the right moment to be heard....... After the movie their was a Q&A for the crowd. I loved hearing all of Rob's encounters and adventures. Its so incredible to me the amount of creative energy that exudes from Rob. Its like, yes, he is a surfer, father, friend, artist, but what the guy brings to life is his ability to create a new way of life or new way of living life and that energy is times a thousand when you get next to him.
Pops couldnt see in the dark so this was our first attempt to get a shot with Rob. Keir is to my left. Sadly, not in the pic. Total bummer. One of my fav lines is

IF AT FIRST YOU DONT SUCCEED - TRY TRY AGAIN..........

and that we did ;-)

I couldnt go home without this picture. Ive hoped for it for a long time. And although Ive seen Rob in person coming in from surfing suckouts in Cardiff many a time while Im on runs, Ive always wanted this picture - I guess I needed to be able to open a new chapter in my life knowing that the

"One day I hope I.........meet my hero Rob Machado"

has been accomplished. Its not something like a conquest or a starstruck thing. I really admire him and knew by shaking his hand and saying "Thank you" I would feel a sense of relief knowing I was able to look him in the eyes from one person to another with a thank you for how you've enriched my life. Dont ask me why I have this connection or had the need to do this. I still dont know. All I know is last night was awesome. The guy is a shredder in the water and when he caught that last stand up barrel in Indo I had to hold back the tears.

I think everyone in the audience "Drifted" with him.